The boards will need bevelling first to ensure a good fit, using a hand-held circular saw, for example. Next, cut out the port for the woofer in the baffle (part 12) and pre-drill the fixing holes. To fix the driver in place, it is also possible to use drive-in nuts and matching bolts. After this, screw and glue the strengthening strut (part 9) to the baffle. Place parts 8, 11, 12 and 13 together "dry" to form a chamber, just to check that they form a good fit. Next, make the cut-out for the loudspeaker in the frame (11). The chamber can now be glued and screwed together. Ensure the glued joints are absolutely airtight. Then position the chamber on the outer side of a side wall and mark around it with a pencil. Align the chamber with the base. Repeat these steps with the other chamber on the other outer wall. Later, when you screw the cabinet walls together, ensure the pencil marks are visible on the outsides of the side walls. This will facilitate the correct positions of the screws.

Now glue and screw the base, rear wall and top to the side wall and the reflectors (1 and 7). The strengthening strut (9) and reflectors must be solidly fixed to the appropriate wall. Before attaching the other side wall, the cables and connections have to be carefully arranged. Any holes drilled through the wall of the chamber for cables must be carefully sealed afterwards, e.g. with mastic.

Fitting the loudspeaker in the rather tight confines of the chamber is a tricky piece of work. However, it is possible with a fair amount of patience, and you will be glad you took your time over it. Finally, close off the chamber with the cover (part 10). Use plenty of sealant and insert at least 10 screws evenly spaced all around the edge.

Transporting the speakers is much simplified if you fit carrying handles, available in good DIY shops.